Bottled Bubbly: The Fascinating History of Cyprus Soft Drinks

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A Book Launch in Nicosia’s Historic Heart

Last Saturday, I had the pleasure of attending a book launch in the old town of Nicosia—a must-attend event the moment I spotted it in the newspaper. The book, Memory in the Bottle: History of Turkish Cypriot Soft Drinks, is a compelling collection of stories chronicling the evolution of fizzy drink production in Cyprus. The event attracted prominent figures from the food and beverage sector, alongside members of the business and social communities, creating the lively atmosphere I had anticipated brimming with nostalgia.

Held at the historic Rustem Bookshop in the Nicosia Walled City, a beautifully restored Venetian-era barn, the setting added a touch of Cypriot charm. The two-story bookshop, with its interior garden mimicking the layout of a traditional Cypriot home, provided the perfect backdrop for the event.

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A Deep Dive into the Soda Industry’s Legacy

Author Prof. Dr. Senih Cavusoglu masterfully narrates the journey of Cyprus’ soda industry, tracing the pioneering minds behind these local soft drink businesses.  The book, Memory in the Bottle: History of Turkish Cypriot Soft Drinks, is available in both English and Turkish. This latest addition to my Cyprus book collection now holds a prized spot on my library shelves.

As the reading progressed, I quickly realized the book delves beyond soft drinks—it’s a socio-cultural exploration of Cyprus told through the lens of its soda industry.  Cavusoglu masterfully pieces together oral histories, archived marketing materials, sampling age-old sodas, collecting vintage bottles, and interviews with former producers and workers. The book reveals how local soda brands once dominated the market, only to face existential threats from global conglomerates in the 1980s. The event concluded with a lively Q&A, a book signing, and a meet-and-greet session.

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The Socio-Cultural Role of Sodas in Cyprus

A Tradition Rooted in History

Soft drinks have been woven into the fabric of Cypriot social life for centuries. The earliest records of carbonated beverages date back hundreds of years, when locals mixed lemonade with sparkling water at home. These refreshing drinks became a staple at celebrations, from grand wedding feasts to modest religious gatherings.

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Sodas and Cypriot Weddings

Cypriot weddings are elaborate and theatrical, featuring dance performances, customary gold gifts, henna rituals, and music that dates back centuries. Sodas secured a permanent place in these vibrant town celebrations, often held at historic landmarks, monuments, or even on the main streets.

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A Refreshing Tradition in Cypriot Social Life

Beyond celebrations, sodas played a significant role in everyday Cypriot life. They were enjoyed at movie theaters, football (soccer) matches, and—perhaps most famously—kahvehane (traditional Cypriot coffeehouses). Much like European pub culture, these establishments served as key hubs for political discourse, business deals, and community bonding. Long before television became a household staple, kahvehane gatherings relied on word-of-mouth and print publications to spread news. Sodas became a natural part of this scene, offering a cooling respite from Cyprus’ sweltering climate.

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The Ottoman Roots of Cyprus’ Soda Industry

The roots of Cypriot sodas trace back to the Ottoman Empire, where a traditional floral and spice-infused drink called “şerbet” was popular. Unlike its boiled counterpart şurup (syrup), şerbet was served cold and fresh— and was commonly sold by street vendors carrying large, decorated containers. It was consumed by all classes, from palace courtyards to village squares, offering a flavorful and hydrating alternative to water. Visit medieval Constantinople; in modern-day Istanbul, you can still see salesmen in flasks strapped on their backs serving serbet on hot days in well-known town squares. Serbet laid the foundation for modern soft drinks.

Serbet played a significant role in shaping the early soda industry in Cyprus, as its refreshing flavors and natural ingredients made it a popular choice among locals. Over time, as refrigeration and bottling technology advanced, serbet evolved into the modern carbonated sodas we recognize today. The transition from homemade serbet to commercial sodas was gradual, but the essence of these historic beverages still lingers in Cypriot soda flavors today.

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The Early Days of Cyprus Soda Production

The initial mass production of local soda beverages, according to research conducted by Mr. Senih, dates back to World War II with the Koutrafali sodas. The production methods were rudimentary and manual, yet they benefited from systemic advancements influenced by the French Revolution. These advancements reached Cyprus at a much faster pace, largely due to British colonial influence. Distribution methods were also primitive, relying on donkey carts.

Mr. Senih presents photographs of customized bottle samples from this early soda production company, narrating the story of its inception and eventual cessation.

I personally do not recall the earlier brands mentioned in the book, as they had ceased production long before I was born. However, I had a conversation with my grandmother, who remembers enjoying some of them and claims they were far superior in flavor to today’s mass-produced sodas. Unfortunately, she did not have the opportunity to sample more than half of the earlier Turkish Cypriot soda brands, as she was born and raised in a remote Greek Cypriot village. Towards the end of Mr. Senih’s book, more commercialized and widely distributed brands like Bixi Cola and Bel Cola take center stage—brands I personally remember from my childhood.

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Consumer Polarization in the Cypriot Soda Industry

Mr. Senih elaborates on the numerous local soda brands that emerged over time. The polarization of the market continued post-World War II, where slogans and brand names highlighted the political divisions on the island until decolonization and independent governance.

I have never sampled some of the earliest brands mentioned in the book, as they date back nearly 80 years. Some names are vaguely familiar from early memories, while others are entirely new revelations to me. I am glad these brands are now documented in historical literature, ensuring that their legacy and the family names behind these businesses will not fade with time.

During the mid-1940s, the British were still mining copper—the very element that gave Cyprus its name, derived from the Latin Cyprium. The CMC mining base on the western coast of Cyprus provided local soda producers a lucrative opportunity to sell large quantities of their products to British miners. The soda producer Fikret eventually expanded its operations beyond soda production to cater to various needs of the British workforce, all under the Fikret Sodas brand name.

By the late 1940s, some local soda companies, led by Fikret Gazozları, imported state-of-the-art production machines from the United States, significantly scaling up their businesses. Assembly lines became more sophisticated, automating almost the entire production process except for distribution. The distribution system also evolved, incorporating mobile soda trucks with side-door service, which allowed for rapid, widespread distribution to remote areas, beaches, and public gatherings.

I can vividly imagine the late 1940s and early 1950s—people flocking to the beaches, radios playing music, and sodas being passed around among youngsters, families, and friends. Cyprus was at its tourism peak, hosting Hollywood stars and members of the Royal Family, particularly in the Varosha beach town. Striped beach umbrellas, grainy paper magazines, and polka-dot bikinis adorned the golden sandy beaches of this Mediterranean paradise.

As production expanded, soda flavors diversified. In addition to colas, cherry and orange flavors were introduced. The recipes of these sodas were closely guarded secrets, seen as the key to each company’s success. During this period, rubber-sealed bottles were replaced with metal caps, and bottle sourcing shifted primarily to Czechoslovakia—a country that no longer exists today.

When 1960 arrived, British rule in Cyprus was replaced by the Republic of Cyprus. Many local soda brands had to rename themselves and dissociate from political affiliations to remain in business. This era marked the birth of Bel Cola, derived from the French word belle, meaning beautiful. Despite its French-sounding name, the brand was a collaboration between a Cypriot businessman and German partners.

The book also documents the evolution of soda prices and currencies over time. At one point, a bottle of soda cost three shillings (Cyprus lira), making it a luxury enjoyed only occasionally by most, except for the wealthier class.

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Sabotage and Rivalry in the Soda Industry

In the late 1950s, Bahar Soda fell victim to sabotage by rival companies. Their concentrate ratios were tampered with, and foreign substances such as flies were found in bottles, leading to a damaged reputation and eventual bankruptcy. This marked the rise of Ferah Cola, which took over the facilities left behind.

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Race-Related Violence and Business Adaptation

In 1967, the distribution vehicle of Ferah Cola was attacked due to its Turkish-sounding name, resulting in three employees being shot. To survive, the brand rebranded itself as Star Cola, adopting an English name to avoid discrimination. However, this was a temporary solution. The separation of communities in 1974 led to mass migrations, forcing many businesses to abandon their production facilities in the south. After 1974, only Bel Cola and Super Cola survived among local soda producers.

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A Lady in the Soda Business: Zehra Hanım’s Ves-Kola

Zehra Hanım entered the soda business to establish a distribution network that would connect the fragmented Turkish Cypriot community. She introduced a mulberry-flavored soda called Vinto, which British soldiers dubbed “Gingerbeer.” She also produced larger bottles of winter beverages, such as rose syrup, cherry, and apple-flavored drinks. However, like many others, she was forced to abandon her factory in 1974 when relocating to the north, leaving behind her legacy.

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Bootleg Soda: A Sneaky Soothing Twist

MOL sodas, produced in Limassol, were legally mandated to be non-alcoholic due to their classification as soft drinks. However, they secretly included a bit of Cypriot Brandy Anglia (an alcoholic ingredient) in their formula. Despite its soothing qualities, the lack of disclosure regarding its alcoholic content raised eyebrows. Eventually, MOL sodas were required to add the term “beered” to their new bottle designs to avoid potential lawsuits. Thus, the guilt-free consumption of soothing sodas came to an end, and MOL transitioned into more of a cider brand than a soda brand—yet it continued to be enjoyed by many.

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The Legendary Bixi Cola: Near Global Recognition and 1980s Mainstream Nudity in Merchandising

In the early 1980s, a Cypriot businessman acquired production rights for the American cola brand Bixi Cola. Through aggressive advertising, Bixi Cola became widely recognized, with catchy slogans and jingles that remain memorable today. Their advertisements extended to calendars featuring nude models, which were often found in unexpected places—such as grandmothers’ kitchens—making for an interesting cultural phenomenon of the era.

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Economic Imperialism and the Fall of Local Soda Brands

In 1984, multinational giants like Pepsi and Coca-Cola entered the Cypriot market, establishing local production facilities and implementing aggressive marketing strategies. Through unfair competition, bribery, and exclusive distribution deals, these brands forced many local sodas out of business. Coca-Cola’s use of preform PET bottles significantly reduced production costs, further strengthening their dominance. Eventually, Bixi Cola was banned in Turkey due to Pepsi and Coca-Cola’s monopolistic tactics hindering exporting channels, leading to the collapse of most local soda brands in Cyprus.

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Super Cola: A Cultural Icon of Famagusta

When Taksim Cola was rebranded as Bel Cola in the 1960s due to political shifts, one of its co-founders went on to establish Super Cola, which still exists today. Locals nicknamed it “Crow Juice” because the crow is the national symbol of Famagusta, much like the eagle for America. No crows are harmed in the making.

Today, local sodas such as the lemon-flavored Bubble Up and the famous Garga Suyu (Crow Juice), officially known as Super Gold mandarin soda, are still available in supermarkets and local restaurants, preserving a piece of Cypriot history.

Preserving history, one bubble at a time.
Soylem

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